山高水清、人傑酒聖、六大名酒、盡在iOkura Interview with Wine Director of Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong – Victor Petiot 畢以達

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年輕而經驗老到的侍酒師畢以達(Victor Petiot)在勃艮第大葡萄園出生和成長,修讀酒店管理學時遇到人生第一位葡萄酒導師Monsieur Duseau,「是這位啟蒙老師誘導了我對葡萄美酒的興趣,成為我人生的轉淚點。」

他在法國聖馬洛著名的迪納爾葡萄酒學校鑽研葡萄酒知識。從葡萄酒釀製、銷售到品酒,典定他成為優秀品酒師的基礎。

「我的老師教導我在客人和酒面前要保持謙卑的心。 釀酒師是酒的靈魂。作為侍酒師,我們需要警惕自己與客人分享葡萄酒知識的同時當常保持謙遜的態度。」

Victor經過一段時間的學習,Victor獲得機會為喬治五世四季酒店於盧瓦爾河谷地區建造一個存放50,000瓶的酒窖。「我對葡萄酒的認知是從盧瓦爾河谷發酵醞釀出來的。當你於學術期間深入了解一個地區,你會刻骨銘記着它的所有。」

於喬治五世四季酒店工作多年後,Victor決定將此份對葡萄酒的熱情擴展到亞洲。現今,他已經是擔任香港四季酒店三顆米芝蓮星級法國餐廳 Caprice的首席侍酒師,領導着酒店的葡萄酒計劃,是Caprice的靈魂主幹人物。

儘管香港非常國際化,但年輕而熱情的Victor總能與不同國籍熱愛葡萄酒的客人相知相惜。Victor認為要為主廚Guillaume Galliot的菜單搭配葡萄酒同時與客人分享心得最具挑戰性,又令他感振奮。

Born in Burgundy, Victor Petiot studied hospitality management. Under the tutelage of his introductory wines teacher Monsieur Duseau, he developed interest in wine. “I navigated my interest toward wine with the help of this important teacher.”

In school in Poligny, he dedicated to develop a deeper knowledge at winemaking, selling and tasting, he experienced all aspects of wine.

“My teacher taught me to remain humble in front of the guest and the wine. The creators are the wine makers. As sommeliers we need to keep the awareness of humility while sharing our knowledge of wine with guests.”

Victor obtain a prestigious trainee position at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris. After a period of learning, Victor received the rare opportunity to build out the Loire Valley section for the 50,000-bottle cellar at Four Seasons Hotel George V.

“My winery training period was in the Loire Valley. When you start learning deeply about one area at such an impressionable time in your schooling, it becomes engraved in your heart and memory.“

After successful years at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Victor felt ready to expand his passion for wine to Asia. He now leads the Hotel’s wine program as Head Sommelier and a major asset in Caprice, the three Michelin-starred French restaurant in Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.

The young and passionate sommelier has developed the ability to speak the same language with guests when it comes to wine, despite the numerous languages spoken in Hong Kong. He finds the challenge of pairing wines with Chef Guillaume Galliot’s menus to be invigorating, along with sharing his intimate knowledge of wine-makers and vineyards with guests.


Victor’s Tasting Notes on Daigin Aged Sake 2004

• A very deep gold color, with a lot of brightness.

• First nose very open and pleasant, creamy and mushrooms flavors, very intense aromas who look like cheese cellar in France.

• Yellow fruit compote like Mirabelle and quince. Touch of oak and spices flavors, like light yellow curry and sandalwood.

• Mouth, to start very straight forward, texture very creamy and intense. A good acidity to balance all the creaminess. Oxidative touches during the retro olfaction, walnuts and cashews flavors.

• At the end a very long persistence and powerful flavors and aromas. The last impression on the palate is almost salty and mineral.

• A very good quality of sake made in an oxidative style with a very nice ageing process.


In December 2022, You may enjoy the special tasting menu for Daigin Koshu Aged Sake at Caprice of Four Seaons Hotel.

First pairing/ on the freshness, Alaskan king crab salad with caviar to play with the creamy and salty flavors.

Second pairing/ daily catch fish coming from France, yellow wine sauce and mushrooms, this pairing will be around the oxidative profile of the wine.

Third pairing/ 36 months comte, hard cheese from Jura where come from the best yellow wines. The sake will balance the salinity and texture of the cheese.

Sweet pairing/ apple pie and almond, a very simple French dessert, the body of this sake will play with the sweetness of the apple.


編者按: 15年葵鶴大吟古酒配中式大閘蟹能變出如中國黃酒、花雕的風味 日本清酒與花雕可說是近親,兩者同樣以米和麴(曲)自然發酵而成,由於古酒的酒質陳年後會可能增添不同風味於酒中陳醋、蜜餞、殼物等等。15年葵鶴大吟古酒有高酸﹑濃厚、輕巧、甘甜等等多變,配大閘蟹餐能帶來難忘的風味。


Mix and Match between Japanese Whisky and Western Cocktails
Designing 3 SHO Whisky Cocktails

I have devised each to be easily reproduced at home with or without Fortnum’s products. They are designed over the course of a meal i.e. Aperitif, Digestif and Dessert.

A one-of-a-kind whisky created exclusively above the Navel of Japan. Crafted by Japanese artistry, SHO Whisky is tempered with pure spring water sheltered by the Chugoku Mountains, and delicately encased in aromatic white oak barrels. Tantalise your palate with an exquisite blend of native flavours.

TASTING NOTES SHO WHISKY

A light intensity of soft citrus and green apple on the nose with beautifully balanced dried apricot, sultana, vanilla and a hint of spice on the palate.


The Kampo SHO

Ingredients

● 35ml SHO

● 12.5ml Fortnum’s Honey Spiced Vodka Liqueur (or other spiced liqueur e.g. ginger liqueur)

● 15ml Lapsang Souchong and Fortnum’s Scottish Ling Heather Honey water (2:1 honey to tea, can use other aromatic, good quality honey)

● Lemon Zest discarded

Glass/Ice/Garnish

Coupette/no/dark chocolate and cinnamon (1:1) powder, dark chocolate spikes. ✻Tip: if you chill the glass first, the dusting will stick to the condensation. Use a sugar duster, fine strainer or fine sieve to evenly distribute.

Method

Stir to desired dilution in mixing glass and fine strain into coupette. Express lemon zest over the liquor and discard.

Notes

Dessert. When I’m feeling a little too full after a good meal I’ll skip dessert and go for a dessert cocktail instead e.g. an Alexander or White Russian.

This is a sort of winter-dessert-riff on one my favourite classic cocktails, the Penicillin. The gorgeous dried fruit and sweet spice vanilla notes of SHO pair well with this Fortnum’s liqueur. The wonderful pine smoke in the Lapsang adds another tier reminiscent of a cosy winter fireplace. Aromatic Scottish Honey has a pleasant rounding effect.

Balance here comes from a touch of bitterness in the zest oil and dark chocolate garnish plus gentle citrus and woody notes from the cinnamon.

The name references the Penicillin cocktail which derives its moniker from the famous medicine. Kampo is traditional Japanese medicine which has its roots in Chinese medicine, reflecting the interplay between Japanese and Chinese ingredients (the whisky and Lapsang) with the Scottish honey a nod to Scotch as the classic Penicillin base. SHO here is a play on the word ‘show’, fitting to the dramatic appearance of the cocktail.

Old Dragon

Ingredients

● 50ml SHO

● 10ml Fortnum’s Jasmine Dragon Pearls (2:1 sugar to tea, can replace Fortnum’s Jasmine Dragon Pearls with your own blend of green and jasmine teas)

● Half pipette Sakura Japanese Bitters (or 4 dash Angostura Bitters)

Glass/Ice/Garnish

Rocks/Ice Ball or cubed/Jasmine flower or other small edible flower

Method

Stir with cubed ice in mixing glass then single strain over ice ball. If using cubed ice you can build and stir in the glass Old Fashioned style.

Notes

Digestif. A twist on the Old Fashioned. This style allows the whisky to shine through with minimal additions, only the Jasmine and Sakura adding soft floral notes with a hint of green tea lending a touch of bitterness to balance.

Jasmine Dragon Pearls is my favourite Fortnum’s tea. This celebrated Chinese tea is scented with whole Jasmine flowers, which are hand-harvested in the evening when the flower’s aroma is at its strongest, it is then placed with green tea leaves and the scent is left to infuse into the leaves overnight. The next day the leaves are separated and hand-rolled, creating a delicate, sweet and fragrant flavour.

SHO Rickey

Ingredients

● 25ml SHO

● 20ml House Acid (a blend of citric and malic acid, you can replace with fresh lemon juice)

● 10ml Ginger & Sicilian Lemon Syrup (2:1 sugar to ginger and lemon tea, here I used Fortnum’s infusion tea bags)

● Top with Fortnum’s Winter Sparkling Tea (can replace with soda water)

Glass/Ice/Garnish

Highball/ Cubed/ Red Shiso Leaf

Method

Pour first 3 ingredients into glass, add ice and stir gently for approx. 30 seconds. Top with more ice and Winter Sparkling Tea or soda water. Garnish and serve with wheat straw

Notes

Aperitif. The Rickey is a classic cocktail from 19th Century USA which originally simply combined bourbon, citrus and soda. Over the years we have added some bells and whistles! It is also reminiscent of a Japanese-style highball.

SHO lends a drier whisky base than bourbon with its sweet spice and toffee notes balanced with sharp acidity and spice from our Ginger & Sicilian Lemon infusion. Our Winter Sparkling Tea is launching this November. It combines Darjeeling, Silver Needle and Chai teas. A much lower ABV alternative to sparkling wine at 5% or a slightly boozy, complex alternative to soda water.


編者按: SHO Whisky充滿柑橘和蘋果的果香,果味清爽突出,令人心曠神怡 Patrick Coyle善用SHO Whisky調了三杯高水準的雞尾酒,包括SHO Rickey、Old Dragon、和The Kampo SHO。SHO Whisky輕柔的柑橘和青蘋果的香氣、與美妙平衡的香草味相得益彰。


 

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我們向所有葡萄酒愛好者展示最新的HOSHO鉑金系列,您可以在以下合作餐廳中享用我們的優質葡萄酒和清酒。

Cuisine Cuisine – The Mira

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WHISK – The Mira

米芝蓮推薦食府WHISK薈萃法日創意饗宴精髓,融合非凡法式烹調技巧及精心挑選日本食材,創製時令嚐味菜譜呈獻惹人垂涎的美饌。

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