HeavenSake天影日本酒,Sake heaven庶幾近矣


關於:清酒

 

日本酒質素,取決於酒米品種、精米步合、水質、酵母類型、釀酒師杜氏流派、釀造方法(例如袋吊、山廢等)……每間酒造的 portfolio,五花百門,讓我等學藝未精之酒徒,要找喜愛之風格,簡直心力交瘁。

The quality of Japanese sake depends on several factors: the rice variety, the degree of milling, the water quality, the type of yeast, the expertise of the toji (master brewer), and the brewing methods used (such as Fukurozuri — the bag-hanging dripping process, and Yamahai — sake made with a starter (moto) that skips the yamaoroshi step). With each brewery offering a distinctive portfolio, it can be quite daunting for those of us still honing our skills in sake appreciation to identify our preferred style.

 

無疑,葡萄酒也一樣,舉例香檳,風格取決於三隻葡萄的比例,小產區風土、一或特級酒園、酒泥貯在瓶中多久(sur lie)…..幸好,絕大部份香檳酒莊主力生產NV,以精湛調配技術(assemblage),建立每莊獨一風格,例如Mumm平衡易飲,Veuve Clicquot柔中帶剛,Bollinger粗獷雄風。

2016年,美資HeavenSake志在造出法式日本酒,顆拍前 Piper-Heidsieck香檳釀酒師Regis Camus,與日本知名酒造合作,用assemblage技藝造出多款和原酒造風格有別的日本酒,令市場耳目一新。

HeavenSake裝於水滴形,不同顏色的玻璃酒瓶,似香檳瓶多過四合裝的日本酒瓶,曾奪San Francisco International Wine Competition金獎,故此酒宴後,空瓶全被拿去。最高級別的由日本酒神農口尚彥原產的Noguchi Prestige 1, 則裝於有田燒陶瓶。

感謝HeavenSake代理商譚兄設宴老字號粵菜館益新,一嚐法日中酒食文化結合。

首先出場是Junmai Ginjo Azur,藍色酒瓶聯想水的純凈,出羽櫻酒造傑作,酒造位於本州北部,日本海邊山形県,素以吟釀見長。Junmai Ginjo Azur味道混合焦糖、花生醬、礦物味,即官網說的了結糖,適合叉燒、金錢雞般燒味,令人一見鍾情。BTW,原料米就叫一見鍾情。

跟著飲Junmai 12,淡琥珀色酒瓶傳達柔和感覺,合作者關西兵庫県小西酒造,名叫12,因酒度12.5%,比很多日本酒低,宜作由日本酒基酒調製的雞尾酒,相對單調,官網說似普羅旺斯玫瑰紅酒,但我喜歡它的絲絲蠔殼味,富Chablis 風格,配兩款海鮮菜大良鮮奶炒蟹肉及麒麟斑塊都好,席上 HeavenSake的亞洲品牌大使,新加坡品酒師Joshua Kalinan認為可夾胡椒蟹。

第三支是Junmai Daiginjo Orange,原產東北地區宮城県浦霞酒藏,浦霞首先培植出協會12號酵母,香氣重也質感強,怪不得襯宮城名物燒牛舌,此“橙”香氣似將榭的花,大鳴大放,但不似一般大吟釀妖冾俗氣,入口複雜,口中咀嚼有變化,鹹味作結,和鹽焗雞是天作之合,夾琵琶鴨花果香味又能減少羶味。

壓軸之作是 Junmai Daiginjo Noir,由山形県楯野川酒造製作,米種有山田錦、出羽燦燦,瓶身黑色已顯出奢華及深度,氣味濃旭,有熱情果、白桃、Muscat甜酒的香氣,餘韻悠長,結構優雅,愚見認為,單尾的鱆魚略有腥味,或改為膶腸雞粒焗飯?飯後閒聊,月旦瑣事,淨飲此酒,快哉快哉!

This complexity mirrors the intricacies found in the world of wine‭; ‬consider champagne as an example‭. ‬The stylistic nuances are‭ ‬influenced by several factors‭: ‬the proportion of the three grape varieties‭, ‬the specific terroirs‭, ‬whether the grapes originate‭ ‬from Grand Cru or Premier Cru vineyards‭, ‬and the duration of lees ageing in the bottle‭, ‬ie sur lie‭. ‬Fortunately‭, ‬most champagne‭ ‬houses focus on producing non-vintage‭ (‬NV‭) ‬champagne‭, ‬employing assemblage blending techniques to establish a unique house style‭. ‬For instance‭, ‬Mumm is balanced and easy-drinking‭, ‬Veuve Clicquot is subtle yet firm‭, ‬and Bollinger is strong and masculine blend‭.‬

In 2016‭, ‬the American-owned HeavenSake set out to create a French-Japanese collaboration‭. ‬Former Piper-Heidsieck champagne winemaker Regis Camus developed the collaboration alongside renowned Japanese breweries‭. ‬Employing assemblage techniques‭, ‬they produced several sake styles that distinguished themselves from traditional offerings‭, ‬bringing fresh perspectives to the market‭.‬

HeavenSake is presented in teardrop-shaped‭, ‬coloured glass bottles that resemble champagne bottles more than traditional Japanese sake vessels‭. ‬It won a gold medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in 2019‭. ‬Empty bottles were quickly claimed as souvenirs after the banquet‭. ‬The highest grade‭, ‬Noguchi Prestige 1‭, ‬crafted by the esteemed sake master Shingo Noguchi‭, ‬is housed in exquisite Arita porcelain bottles‭.‬

Thank you to Mr‭. ‬Tam‭, ‬the HeavenSake agent‭, ‬for hosting a banquet at the historic Cantonese restaurant Yixin‭, ‬where we experienced the fusion of French‭, ‬Japanese‭, ‬and Chinese liquor and culinary cultures‭.‬

First up was Junmai Ginjo Azur‭, ‬presented in a blue bottle reminiscent of the purity of water‭. ‬This masterpiece from Dewazakura‭ ‬Brewery‭, ‬located in Yamagata Prefecture along the Japan Sea northern coast of Honshu‭, ‬is renowned for its ginjo brewing style‭. ‬Junmai Ginjo Azur has a taste that combines caramel‭, ‬peanut butter‭, ‬and mineral notes‭, ‬with the official website describing it as‭ ‬having a decisive nougat sweetness‭. ‬It paired beautifully with char siu and chicken liver‭, ‬fatty and barbequed pork combo‭, ‬truly a case of‭ ‬‮!’‬love at first sip‮!(‬‭. ‬Interestingly‭, ‬the rice used was called‭ ‬‮!’‬Hitomebore‮!(‬‭, ‬which translates to‭ ‬‮!’‬love at first sight‮!(‬‭.‬

Next was Junmai 12‭, ‬presented in a light amber bottle that conveys a sense of gentleness‭. ‬This sake‭, ‬a collaboration with Konishi Brewery in Hyogo Prefecture‭, ‬is aptly named‭ ‬‮!’‬12‮!(‬‭ ‬due to its alcohol content of 12.5%‭, ‬which is lower than many sakes‭. ‬It serves well with a base for cocktails and is relatively monotonous‭. ‬The official website describes it as an alternative to rosé‭ ‬wine‭. ‬However‭, ‬I appreciated its subtle oyster shell notes‭, ‬reminiscent of Chablis‭. ‬It paired beautifully with two seafood dishes‭: ‬Daliang style scrambled egg white with crab meat and Qilin style grouper‭. ‬At the banquet‭, ‬HeavenSake’s Asian brand ambassador‭, ‬Singaporean sommelier Joshua Kalinan‭, ‬suggested it would also complement pepper crab‭.‬

The third was Junmai Daiginjo Orange‭, ‬originating from Urakasumi Sake Brewery in Miyagi Prefecture in the Tohoku region‭. ‬Urakasumi was the first to cultivate Association No‭. ‬12‭ ‬yeast‭, ‬known for its strong aroma and robust texture‭, ‬making it a perfect match‭ ‬for the regional delicacy‭ – ‬grilled beef tongue‭. ‬This‭ “‬orange‭” ‬aroma resembles a flower that will soon wither‭, ‬vibrant and captivating‭, ‬yet distinct from the more conventional enchanting aromas found in typical daiginjo‭. ‬It offers a complex entry‭, ‬with evolving flavours on the palate and a salty finish‭, ‬making it an ideal pairing for salt-baked chicken‭. ‬Additionally‭, ‬when pairing‭ ‬the floral and fruity notes of pipa-shaped duck‭, ‬this Sake helps to mitigate any gamey flavours‭.‬

The grand finale was Junmai Daiginjo Noir‭, ‬made by Tatenokawa Brewery in Yamagata Prefecture‭, ‬with rice varieties Yamada Nishiki‭ ‬and Dewasansan‭. ‬The black bottle exudes luxury and depth‭, ‬with a strong aroma of passion fruit‭, ‬white peach‭, ‬and Muscat sweet wine aroma‭, ‬complemented by a long aftertaste and elegant structure‭. ‬In my humble opinion‭, ‬the staple food course of the octopus‭ ‬had a slightly fishy taste‭; ‬perhaps it would be better to switch to baked preserved pork sausage and chicken rice instead‭. ‬After‭ ‬the meal‭, ‬engaging in light conversation while savouring this exquisite sake is truly a pleasure‭ – ‬a heavenly experience‭!‬