日本酒質素,取決於酒米品種、精米步合、水質、酵母類型、釀酒師杜氏流派、釀造方法(例如袋吊、山廢等)……每間酒造的 portfolio,五花百門,讓我等學藝未精之酒徒,要找喜愛之風格,簡直心力交瘁。
The quality of Japanese sake depends on several factors: the rice variety, the degree of milling, the water quality, the type of yeast, the expertise of the toji (master brewer), and the brewing methods used (such as Fukurozuri — the bag-hanging dripping process, and Yamahai — sake made with a starter (moto) that skips the yamaoroshi step). With each brewery offering a distinctive portfolio, it can be quite daunting for those of us still honing our skills in sake appreciation to identify our preferred style.
無疑,葡萄酒也一樣,舉例香檳,風格取決於三隻葡萄的比例,小產區風土、一或特級酒園、酒泥貯在瓶中多久(sur lie)…..幸好,絕大部份香檳酒莊主力生產NV,以精湛調配技術(assemblage),建立每莊獨一風格,例如Mumm平衡易飲,Veuve Clicquot柔中帶剛,Bollinger粗獷雄風。
2016年,美資HeavenSake志在造出法式日本酒,顆拍前 Piper-Heidsieck香檳釀酒師Regis Camus,與日本知名酒造合作,用assemblage技藝造出多款和原酒造風格有別的日本酒,令市場耳目一新。
HeavenSake裝於水滴形,不同顏色的玻璃酒瓶,似香檳瓶多過四合裝的日本酒瓶,曾奪San Francisco International Wine Competition金獎,故此酒宴後,空瓶全被拿去。最高級別的由日本酒神農口尚彥原產的Noguchi Prestige 1, 則裝於有田燒陶瓶。
感謝HeavenSake代理商譚兄設宴老字號粵菜館益新,一嚐法日中酒食文化結合。
首先出場是Junmai Ginjo Azur,藍色酒瓶聯想水的純凈,出羽櫻酒造傑作,酒造位於本州北部,日本海邊山形県,素以吟釀見長。Junmai Ginjo Azur味道混合焦糖、花生醬、礦物味,即官網說的了結糖,適合叉燒、金錢雞般燒味,令人一見鍾情。BTW,原料米就叫一見鍾情。
跟著飲Junmai 12,淡琥珀色酒瓶傳達柔和感覺,合作者關西兵庫県小西酒造,名叫12,因酒度12.5%,比很多日本酒低,宜作由日本酒基酒調製的雞尾酒,相對單調,官網說似普羅旺斯玫瑰紅酒,但我喜歡它的絲絲蠔殼味,富Chablis 風格,配兩款海鮮菜大良鮮奶炒蟹肉及麒麟斑塊都好,席上 HeavenSake的亞洲品牌大使,新加坡品酒師Joshua Kalinan認為可夾胡椒蟹。
第三支是Junmai Daiginjo Orange,原產東北地區宮城県浦霞酒藏,浦霞首先培植出協會12號酵母,香氣重也質感強,怪不得襯宮城名物燒牛舌,此“橙”香氣似將榭的花,大鳴大放,但不似一般大吟釀妖冾俗氣,入口複雜,口中咀嚼有變化,鹹味作結,和鹽焗雞是天作之合,夾琵琶鴨花果香味又能減少羶味。
壓軸之作是 Junmai Daiginjo Noir,由山形県楯野川酒造製作,米種有山田錦、出羽燦燦,瓶身黑色已顯出奢華及深度,氣味濃旭,有熱情果、白桃、Muscat甜酒的香氣,餘韻悠長,結構優雅,愚見認為,單尾的鱆魚略有腥味,或改為膶腸雞粒焗飯?飯後閒聊,月旦瑣事,淨飲此酒,快哉快哉!
This complexity mirrors the intricacies found in the world of wine; consider champagne as an example. The stylistic nuances are influenced by several factors: the proportion of the three grape varieties, the specific terroirs, whether the grapes originate from Grand Cru or Premier Cru vineyards, and the duration of lees ageing in the bottle, ie sur lie. Fortunately, most champagne houses focus on producing non-vintage (NV) champagne, employing assemblage blending techniques to establish a unique house style. For instance, Mumm is balanced and easy-drinking, Veuve Clicquot is subtle yet firm, and Bollinger is strong and masculine blend.
In 2016, the American-owned HeavenSake set out to create a French-Japanese collaboration. Former Piper-Heidsieck champagne winemaker Regis Camus developed the collaboration alongside renowned Japanese breweries. Employing assemblage techniques, they produced several sake styles that distinguished themselves from traditional offerings, bringing fresh perspectives to the market.
HeavenSake is presented in teardrop-shaped, coloured glass bottles that resemble champagne bottles more than traditional Japanese sake vessels. It won a gold medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in 2019. Empty bottles were quickly claimed as souvenirs after the banquet. The highest grade, Noguchi Prestige 1, crafted by the esteemed sake master Shingo Noguchi, is housed in exquisite Arita porcelain bottles.
Thank you to Mr. Tam, the HeavenSake agent, for hosting a banquet at the historic Cantonese restaurant Yixin, where we experienced the fusion of French, Japanese, and Chinese liquor and culinary cultures.
First up was Junmai Ginjo Azur, presented in a blue bottle reminiscent of the purity of water. This masterpiece from Dewazakura Brewery, located in Yamagata Prefecture along the Japan Sea northern coast of Honshu, is renowned for its ginjo brewing style. Junmai Ginjo Azur has a taste that combines caramel, peanut butter, and mineral notes, with the official website describing it as having a decisive nougat sweetness. It paired beautifully with char siu and chicken liver, fatty and barbequed pork combo, truly a case of !’love at first sip!(. Interestingly, the rice used was called !’Hitomebore!(, which translates to !’love at first sight!(.
Next was Junmai 12, presented in a light amber bottle that conveys a sense of gentleness. This sake, a collaboration with Konishi Brewery in Hyogo Prefecture, is aptly named !’12!( due to its alcohol content of 12.5%, which is lower than many sakes. It serves well with a base for cocktails and is relatively monotonous. The official website describes it as an alternative to rosé wine. However, I appreciated its subtle oyster shell notes, reminiscent of Chablis. It paired beautifully with two seafood dishes: Daliang style scrambled egg white with crab meat and Qilin style grouper. At the banquet, HeavenSake’s Asian brand ambassador, Singaporean sommelier Joshua Kalinan, suggested it would also complement pepper crab.
The third was Junmai Daiginjo Orange, originating from Urakasumi Sake Brewery in Miyagi Prefecture in the Tohoku region. Urakasumi was the first to cultivate Association No. 12 yeast, known for its strong aroma and robust texture, making it a perfect match for the regional delicacy – grilled beef tongue. This “orange” aroma resembles a flower that will soon wither, vibrant and captivating, yet distinct from the more conventional enchanting aromas found in typical daiginjo. It offers a complex entry, with evolving flavours on the palate and a salty finish, making it an ideal pairing for salt-baked chicken. Additionally, when pairing the floral and fruity notes of pipa-shaped duck, this Sake helps to mitigate any gamey flavours.
The grand finale was Junmai Daiginjo Noir, made by Tatenokawa Brewery in Yamagata Prefecture, with rice varieties Yamada Nishiki and Dewasansan. The black bottle exudes luxury and depth, with a strong aroma of passion fruit, white peach, and Muscat sweet wine aroma, complemented by a long aftertaste and elegant structure. In my humble opinion, the staple food course of the octopus had a slightly fishy taste; perhaps it would be better to switch to baked preserved pork sausage and chicken rice instead. After the meal, engaging in light conversation while savouring this exquisite sake is truly a pleasure – a heavenly experience!