2024 年 5 月 28 日至 30 日在香港會議展覽中心舉行的亞洲國際葡萄酒及烈酒展覽會(Vinexpo Asia) 2024 突顯了香港作為亞洲國際大都會和活動之都的聲譽。今年的展會吸引了來自 35 個國家的超過 1,000 名參展商和 10,000 名訪客。在眾多全球葡萄酒產品中，法國葡萄酒脫穎而出，展示了該國經典且多樣化的葡萄酒遺產。
Vinexpo Asia 上一次在香港舉行，已經是六年前的事，今年回歸，法國成為焦點，該國參展商成為參與者中的重要部分。法國館是展會中最大的展區，突顯了法國葡萄酒在全球葡萄酒市場中的關鍵角色。訪客在此得以體驗展示法國葡萄栽培豐富多樣性的各種葡萄酒風格。
起泡酒：香檳及香檳以外
法國以優質起泡酒著稱，首先有 Joseph Perrier Champagne Brut NV。這款經典香檳，由幾乎等量的 Chardonnay、Pinot Noir 和 Meunier 混合而成，用上了 20% 的儲備酒，經過 36 個月的酒泥陳釀，帶有金美味蘋果和明亮檸檬酸度的風味，體現了典型的香檳風格。
除了標誌性的香檳，還有來自朗格多克 （Limoux） 的傳統方法起泡酒。Limoux 因最早生產稱為 Blanquette 的起泡酒而聞名，比香檳還要早。Famille Antech Limoux M Le Mauzac Brut Nature 2021 則以其 100% Mauzac 提供了獨特的口感，蘋果花和薄荷的香氣結合了青蘋果和柚子的清爽但柔和的口感，展示了 Limoux 起泡酒的優雅特性。 還有一款由古傳製法 （méthode ancestrale） 釀成的天然起泡酒 Clairette de Die Jaillance Tradition，由 75% Muscat 和 25% Clairette 調配而成，其葡萄香氣、芳香和淡淡的甜味，是節慶場合的完美選擇。
白葡萄酒：從清爽到圓潤
法國白葡萄酒風格包羅萬有，首先是 Maison Jaffelin Chablis 2022。它以其清新、清脆的特點、白花香氣和極佳的礦物質感而著稱，讓人立刻想要搭配一些新鮮生蠔。 而Touraine Chenonceaux J de Villebois 2022 是一款紮實而豐滿的盧瓦爾（Loire）Sauvignon Blanc，具有梨、榅桲和桃駁李的味道，而南法的 Miss Anaïs Le Chic Côté Sud 則混合了 Chardonnay 和 Viognier，帶來花香和夏季水果的香氣，並有細膩持久的尾韻。 來自科西嘉島（Corsica）的 Terra Vecchia Vermentino 以其濃烈的香料梨味、冰冷的酸度和西柚皮的苦味令人印象深刻。
博若萊村莊級酒：豐富且複雜
博若萊（Beaujolais）地區由 Les Cardinaux Nord Côte de Brouilly Récolte 2022 代表，展示了強勁的新鮮紅果特徵，夾雜含蓄我的煙熏和海鹽礦物質感，完全體現了Côte de Brouilly 這個博若萊村莊獨特的藍色火山黏土的特性。
波爾多紅酒：經典的典範
波爾多的經典紅酒有 Château Ricaudet 2018 AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois 。這款以 Merlot 為主的葡萄酒具有濃郁的寶石紅色、平衡的口感和悠長柔和的尾韻。
西南法國：鮮為人知的瑰寶
Chateau la Besage Bergerac 2019 展示了一款酒體飽滿的葡萄酒，完美結合了 Cabernet Franc 的紫羅蘭和石墨香氣與 Merlot 的柔和口感。另外，Le Faîte Saint Mont 2019 由 Tannat、Cabernet Sauvignon 和 Pinenc 三個品種混成，調配得完美和諧，提供了濃烈的風味、柔和的單寧和香氣，顯示出 Saint Mont AOC 的潛力。
羅納河谷：鮮為人知的瑰寶
南法鮮為人知的法定產區通過 La Fiole Côtes du Rhône 等葡萄酒大放異彩，這款 Grenache 和 Syrah 的混合酒帶有野生水果香氣和橡木辛香味。其獨特的樽形讓人聯想起被密斯特拉爾（Mistral）風吹彎了的 Grenache 老樹藤。Gigondas La Cave Le Brut de Foudre 56 2018 和 Lavau Vacqueyras 2021 突顯了南羅納河谷紅酒的深度，具有濃郁的風味和優雅的酸度，搭配烤肉非常完美，而 Grand Marrenon Luberon Rouge 2022 則提供了濃縮的、酒體豐滿的紅酒，具有該地區典型的草本香氣。
普羅旺斯玫瑰酒：迷人且有結構
Roubine La Rose Vie en Côtes de Provence 酒瓶設計精美，Grenache主導，加上20% Cinsault 和 10% Syrah，以其淡淡的三文魚粉紅色、迷人的花香和圓潤豐滿的口感吸引人，並逐漸散發出辛香和茴香味。
天然甜酒：更加傳奇
兩款天然甜酒Vins Doux Naturels（VDN） 酒標上的年份引起了我的注意。我怎能錯過這些來自露喜龍（Roussillon）的傳奇法國加強酒呢？L’Archiviste Rivesaltes 1974，以 Grenache Blanc 為主，明亮的中等琥珀色，質地濃密。堅果香氣中帶有濃縮的肉桂和香草味。誘人的濃郁葡萄乾果味與美味的甜焦糖無瑕結合。清新的脆酸度增加了平衡和結構。然後是 L’Archiviste Banyuls 1965，以 Grenache Noir 為主，中等紅褐色，帶有肉味、乾果、巧克力、香料和超細單寧。悠長的餘韻中延續著香料、焦糖和草本植物的味道。
獨特烈酒：干邑和威士忌
不僅限於葡萄酒，法國的烈酒也不能錯過。A. de Fussigny Collection VSOP 干邑以其優雅的焦糖化水果、雲呢拿和辛香，以至舒適的尾韻給我留下了深刻的印象。創新的 Whisky de Normandy Le Breuil Oloroso Finish Single Malt 則帶來了麥芽、酵母和橡木香料的複雜口感，為法國飲品系列增添了獨特的維度。
創新之味：低酒精葡萄酒
Frais & Léger 9° Elia Côtes de Gascogne IGP Colombard，由 100% Colombard 製成，展現了清新、細膩和芳香的特點，僅有 9% 的酒精度，突顯了法國在尊重傳統的同時，具備創新能力。
縈繞的餘韻
香港的亞洲國際葡萄酒及烈酒展覽會 2024 為法國葡萄酒提供了一個充滿活力的舞台，突顯了其經典魅力和多樣化。從起泡酒和白葡萄酒到多層次的玫瑰酒、複雜的紅酒和創新烈酒，法國生產商展示了該國豐富的葡萄酒文化遺產及其不斷發展，深深縈繞在所有葡萄酒愛好者的腦海。此次活動不僅讓法國葡萄酒大放異彩，還重新確認了香港作為全球葡萄酒貿易樞紐的地位。
France Showcases Diverse Wine Styles at Vinexpo Asia 2024 in Hong Kong
Vinexpo Asia 2024, held from 28-30 May at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), underscored Hong Kong’s reputation as Asia’s international metropolis and event capital. This year’s edition was marked by an impressive gathering of over 1,000 exhibitors and 10,000 visitors from 35 countries. Among the myriads of global wine offerings, French wines stood out prominently, showcasing the nation’s classic and diverse wine heritage.
France Takes Centre Stage
Returning to Hong Kong after a six-year hiatus, Vinexpo Asia 2024 saw French exhibitors constituting a significant portion of the participants. The France Pavilion, the largest at the event, highlighted French wines’ pivotal role in the global wine market. Here, attendees were treated to a spectrum of wine styles that illustrate French viticulture’s rich diversity and depth.
Sparkling Wines: Champagne and Beyond
France’s reputation for exceptional sparkling wines was well-represented, starting with the Joseph Perrier Champagne Brut NV. This classic champagne, a blend of nearly equal proportions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier with 20% reserve wine, aged 36 months on lees, offered notes of Golden Delicious apples and bright lemon acidity, embodying the quintessential Champagne experience.
Beyond the iconic champagne, there is another traditional method sparkling wine from Limoux in Languedoc. Limoux is famous for being the first to produce sparkling wine known as Blanquette, even earlier than Champagne. The Famille Antech Limoux M Le Mauzac Brut Nature 2021 provided a unique taste with its 100% Mauzac. The apple blossom and minty nose, combined with a dry yet gentle palate of green apples and pomelo, showcased the elegant versatility of Limoux frizz.
Then, the Clairette de Die Jaillance Tradition, a naturally sparkling wine made by méthode ancestrale, is a blend of 75% Muscat and 25% Clairette, delighted with its grapey, aromatic, and lightly sweet finish, perfect for festive occasions.
White Wines: From Crisp to Round
French white wines offered a journey through various styles, starting with the Maison Jaffelin Chablis 2022. It is characterised by its fresh, crisp profile, white floral nose, and great minerality, which immediately made me want some fresh oysters.
The Touraine Chenonceaux J de Villebois 2022, a solid and opulent Loire Sauvignon Blanc, displayed a steely texture with notes of pear, quince, and nectarine, while Miss Anaïs Le Chic Côté Sud blended Chardonnay and Viognier, delivering a floral nose with summer fruits and a delicate yet persistent finish.
The Terra Vecchia Vermentino from Corsica impressed me with its intense spicy pear flavours, glacial acidity, and grapefruit pith bitterness on the finish.
Beaujolais Crus: Rich and Complex
The Beaujolais region was represented by the Les Cardinaux Nord Côte de Brouilly Récolte 2022, showcasing a powerful fresh red fruit character with smokey and saline minerality, a testament to the unique blue volcanic clay of this Beaujolais Cru – Côte de Brouilly.
Bordeaux Reds: The Epitome of Classic
Bordeaux’s classic reds were exemplified by the Château Ricaudet 2018 AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois. This Merlot dominant wine featured an intense ruby colour, a balanced palate, and a long, supple finish.
Southwest France: Lesser-Known Gems
The Chateau la Besage Bergerac 2019 showcased a full-bodied wine that perfectly blended the Cabernet Franc’s violet and graphite fragrance with the Merlot’s suppleness.
The Le Faîte Saint Mont 2019, a harmonious blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc, provided intense flavours, supple tannins lifted with an aromatic touch, indicative of Saint Mont AOC’s potential.
Rhône Valley: Lesser-Known Gems
Southern France’s lesser-known appellations shone through with wines like La Fiole Côtes du Rhône, a blend of Grenache and Syrah offering wild fruit aromas and spicy oak notes. Its unique bottle shape reminisces old Grenache vines bent by the Mistral wind. The Gigondas La Cave Le Brut de Foudre 56 2018 and Lavau Vacqueyras 2021 highlighted the depth of Southern Rhône reds, with rich, robust flavours and elegant acidity, perfect for pairing with grilled meats while the Grand Marrenon Luberon Rouge 2022 offered a concentrated, full-bodied red with herbal scents typical of the region.
Provence Rosé: Charming and Structured
The Roubine La Rose Vie en Côtes de Provence housed in a beautifully designed bottle is a blend of Grenache with 20% Cinsault and 10% Syrah, captivated with its light salmon pink colour, charming floral and cut grass nose, and round, full palate, evolving into subtle anise-like spiciness and fennel undertones.
Vins Doux Naturels: Even More Legendary
The vintages on the labels of two mature VDNs caught my eye. How could I miss these legendary French fortified wines from Roussillon? The L’Archiviste Rivesaltes 1974, Grenache Blanc dominant, showed a bright, medium amber colour with a dense texture. Nutty on the nose with concentrated cinnamon and vanilla. Attractive, rich, raisiny fruit character combined with deliciously sweet caramel. Some refreshing crisp acidity lending balance and structure. Then, the L’Archiviste Banyuls 1965, Grenache Noir dominant, medium mahogany in colour, meaty, dried fruit with chocolate, spice and super-fine tannins. Spice, caramel and herbs on the long finish.
Unique Spirits: Cognac and Whisky
Not limited to wine, French spirits also made a mark. The A. de Fussigny Collection VSOP Cognac impressed me with its elegant, caramelised fruits, vanilla, and spicy and soothing finish. The innovative Whisky de Normandy Le Breuil Oloroso Finish Single Malt offered a complex palate of malt, yeast, and oak spice, adding a unique dimension to the French beverage repertoire.
A Taste of Innovation: Low-Alcohol Wines
The Frais & Léger 9° Elia Côtes de Gascogne IGP Colombard, made from 100% Colombard, exhibited a fresh, delicate, and aromatic profile with only 9% alcohol, highlighting France’s ability to innovate while respecting tradition.
A Lingering Finish
Vinexpo Asia 2024 in Hong Kong served as a vibrant stage for French wines, highlighting their classic appeal and diverse range. From sparkling and white wines through structured rosés to complex reds and innovative spirits, French producers showcased the nation’s rich viticultural heritage and its continuous evolution lingering in all wine lovers’ minds. This event not only celebrated French wines but also reaffirmed Hong Kong’s status as a pivotal hub for the global wine trade.
