華而不奢的Fine Dining @ Donovan


文苑飯莊,去年冒起之潮店,平地一聲雷,嬴盡掌聲,團隊再接再勵,在銅鑼灣開了一間現代西餐廳Donavan。

 

Man Yuen Restaurant, a rising star in the trend of eateries. Undeterred, the team continued their success and recently opened a modern Western restaurant named Donovan in Causeway Bay.

一餐fine dining,等於一套餐飲作道具的戲劇,序幕力求先聲奪人,而讓人萬分期待後續菜品。我最喜歡以前麗晶酒店的法國菜Plume,開放式法國廚房卻焗印度nann,任塗鵝肝醬,又fusion又奢侈。

Donovan敬菜(amuse bouche)是松露馬卡龍、雞肝巴菲,然後上凍頭盤韃靼紅蝦、魚子醬、savoury jelly,器皿凹碗似Robuchon的魚子醬蟹肉罐頭,擺盤鼓勵撈勻一口吃,材料好,味道當然好!配香檳Charles de Cazanove 2016,白酒杯上,強調醒酒帶來的複雜度,整個food & wine pairing提高了鮮度(savoury)。

整個廚師發辦套餐,最吸引我是linguine calamari,聽做法已吸引,魷魚扁身,略煮改刀後變扁身意大利麵(linguine),撈魷魚弄的上湯,席前再削黑松露。魷魚本身味薄有韌勁,松露濃煤氣般香味,口感相對輕柔,兩者莊閑有序,互相輔助。品酒師夾栃木懸美山錦純米吟釀,此日本酒米香而非蜜瓜香,使魷魚鮮味突出。

Fish course是左口魚、魚骨熬汁、淡水狗魚子、西米珍珠、牛油軟麵包(brioche)、海草牛油。左口魚夠油脂,菜式開始由淡入濃,澳洲廚師貫徹from head to toe概念,全條魚浸熟僅吃少許魚柳,其餘造成濃稠魚汁,此菜正路但夠心機。配酒正路加州莎當妮,like with like,牛油配牛油。

肉類兩道,先羔羊後乳鴿,配酒分別為2019 Barolo, Mauro Molino和Pernard-Vergelesses一級莊les Fichots, Domaine Jean-Baptiste Boudier,單看Pernard-Vergelesses這AOC,毫不吸引,但飲落有力,猶不失黑皮諾的優雅,更難得是 breathable的布根地,由濃旭櫻桃變出香菇味。怪不得以wine of the kings,king of the wines Barolo引路,帶出大大驚喜!

全餐看出Chef Donovan 基本功紥實,曾在馬會打拼多年,創出有點香港色彩而正宗法國菜。配酒顧及成本,不花俏而仍有創意。吃一頓價錢實惠,華而不奢的 fine dining,輕鬆一晚再上路。

A fine dining experience is like a theatrical performance where each course serves as a prop, aiming to captivate the audience’s hearts from the very beginning. My nostalgia takes me back to Plume at the Regent Hotel, where the French kitchen went Bollywood, serving Indian naan with foie gras sauce – a fusion of luxury and indulgence.

Donovan’s amuse-bouche featured truffle macarons and chicken liver parfait. Now onto the cold appetizer – tartare of red prawn, caviar, and savoury jelly in a concave dish reminiscent of Robuchon’s caviar and crabmeat creation. The presentation practically invited you to mix for a harmonious bite, and the high-quality ingredients ensured a delightful taste. Paired with a 2016 Charles de Cazanove Champagne in a white wine glass, the emphasis on aeration enhances the complexity, elevating the overall food and wine pairing experience.

The chef’s tasting menu piqued my interest in linguine calamari. The excitement grew as I learnt about the method of preparation – squid thinly sliced into linguine, tossed in squid broth, and crowned with freshly shaved black truffle at the table. The squid itself was subtly flavoured with a resilient texture, while the truffle added an intense coal gas aroma that perfectly complemented each other. The balance of flavours was impeccable, with each element enhancing the other. The sommelier recommended Tochigi Prefecture Junmai Gingo. Crafted from Miyama Nishika rice, this sake boasted a rice aroma, amplifying the freshness of the squid.

Dive into the fish course featuring turbot, fish bone broth, pike caviar, tapioca pearls, buttery brioche, and seaweed butter. This flounder, generously blessed with oil, took your palate from a gentle sea breeze to a flavour-packed tidal wave. Our Aussie chef embraced the “from head to toe” philosophy, cooking the entire fish and serving only a small portion of the fillet, using the rest to create a thick fish broth. The pairing with a California Chardonnay was fitting, “like with like”, aligning buttery notes with the brioche.

The grand finale: lamb followed by pigeon. Wine pairing were 2019 Barolo, Mauro and Domaine Jean-Baptiste Boudier Les Fichots, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru seperately. Pernand-Vergelesses was not the most eye-catching AOC at first, but the wine radiated strength and elegance, rivalling even the esteemed Pinot Noir. This rare and breathable Burgundy transitioned seamlessly from intense cherry to mushroom notes. It’s no wonder why Barolo, known as the “wine of the kings, king of the wines,” paved the way for such a delightful surprise!

Throughout the feast, Chef Donovan’s culinary skills are evident. Having spent years at the Jockey Club, he seamlessly blended a touch of Hong Kong flavour with French cuisine. The wine pairings, like a budget-friendly magic show, kept the creative vibes flowing. Enjoying an affordable and unpretentious fine dining experience like this can provide a momentary escape.

圖:梁衛民 Sammy Leung | 英譯:梁雅穎 Agatha Leung